Meet Joe Brown…
“For me, the most enjoyable part of climbing lies in the adventure.” Joe Brown CBE
Joe may only have been 5' 4" but there is no question he was a giant in the climbing world, loved, respected and revered by those who followed in the wake of his climbing boots - nailed or rubber.
He never courted fame, instead quietly pushing the boundaries of rock climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, expeditions and exploration to become one of the greatest all round climbers that ever lived. It’s a hefty claim but if you read through his full bio here you will see why.
From the outset Joe pushed boundaries, not serving the usual long apprenticeship with older more experienced climbers which was the norm at the time, but instead self-taught, along with his friends, through adventure and mis-adventure, approaching cliffs without any of the inhibitions and traditional values that might otherwise have held them back. They had little idea of grades and grading but judged climbs solely according to their own opinions, assuming that if they could get up it, it could not be regarded as hard by other more experienced climbers.
Up until 1948, Joe and his friends had operated largely in isolation - indeed they continued to operate outside the mainstream of the climbing world for several more years but joining the Valkyrie Club in 1948 brought Joe into regular contact with other climbers, and together they explored the Peak District’s gritstone edges, with Joe making a number of first ascents.
1948 also saw Joe’s first serious foray into winter climbing with a camping trip to Ben Nevis which culminated with a forced evacuation from a high campsite in the face of a blizzard which literally destroyed the tent. The Glen Nevis bridge had been washed away, the river crossing proved epic, and Joe’s companion, Ludder, was found to have a broken leg, from an injury sustained descending the Red Burn five days previously!
That climbers of that time was made of stern stuff is indisputable but Joe also had a generosity and presence about him that he was eager to share while working as an Outdoor Instructor in the early days, with shop customers he served anonymously, new climbers he met out on the hill and that also secured him places on key expeditions.
It is this generosity that we are honoured to continue and which provided the foundation and idea for continuing Joe’s legacy of giving back to the sport he loved so much.
This is why we have created the Joe Brown Outdoor Academy.
“You’re quite short. How do you reach the holds?”
JOE: “I climb up to them.”
Image credits:
Thanks to the following for the use of the above images: John Clear, Simon Ingram, Gordon Stainforth, Ray Wood